Friday, October 30, 2015

The Dead David Viburnum Part I



DISEASE IDENTIFICATION in the garden is sometimes a difficult thing to accomplish correctly as there can be many overlapping and similar symptoms. However, determining what is plaguing your plants is an important task to accomplish, not only for hopefully saving your garden, but for determining what to replace it with if saving it is not an option.

The following rundown is on a David Viburnum (Viburnum davidii) that went from healthy to dead in a matter of just a few weeks. While I am pretty certain of its ultimate diagnosis, I will say that the only real way for me to be sure is to take a sample to my local extension office and have them test it. However, if I were to go test every plant I came across that was sick, I would be at the extension office quite a bit. Ain’t nobody got time for that. With a little sleuthing, you can figure out what is going on by yourself. If it ends up stumping you, then give the extension office a whirl.

Start by gathering all the relevant information. Growing conditions (soil, sun exposure, time of year, temperatures for the period prior to illness (could be months back – pay attention), mulch layer, etc.), broken branches, cankers (and locations), mold/mildew/fungus presence, leaf conditions (not all “spots” on a leaf are the same – fungus spots are different than bacterial spots), interior wood appearance (cut a branch to see), and plant history/age are all some of the things to take note of.

Once the basic information is down, it is time to start looking for what the cause could be. A good disease ID book or website with their identification rubrics can help to run through the symptoms. It doesn’t hurt to simply look through the web and familiarize yourself with the different possibilities before trying to figure out what went wrong with yours. Phytophthora? Botryosphaeria? Verticillium Wilt? Old Age? Mildew? Root Rots? There are so many different causal agents out there it will make your head spin – at first. But like everything, a little practice goes a long ways.

So, here is the poor little shrub. It started out this year in great shape, minus the poor pruning job someone had subjected it to the previous year. Its home is here in the Willamette Valley of Oregon.



As you can see, there is not a heck of a lot of green left (none, really). It went from bright green and healthy to this in a time span of about 2-3 weeks.

Here is what I observed:

  • Died in mid-September
  • Located on the NE side corner of the building between two houses
  • No digging or other landscape construction work recently
  • Hot summer sun in the early evening during the summer
  • This past summer was HOT and DRY. Very little supplemental watering/irrigation and rainfall had been non-existent since April
  • No mulch
  • Leaves turned brown and leathery with large, black splotchy areas, but no real “spots”
  • Previous poor pruning evidence, dead “stumps,” some broken (split) branches
  • No good canker evidence
  • No obvious fungal growths
  • Still firmly held into the ground
  • No obvious signs of insect infestation above or below ground
  • No real ability to determine age, but could possibly be 70 years old, part of the original house landscaping.
  • Dead tissue started with newly set berries, then one branch (which was pruned off) then the entire plant. From the branch pruning to whole plant death was in the neighborhood of 5-7 days. Whole process was 2-3 weeks.
  • Vascular staining in the interior wood starting at the outermost (cambium/cork cambium) layer and in towards the sapwood.


Brown, Leathery Leaves with Black Splotches

Vascular Staining (the dark stuff)


I ruled out the Phytopthora spp. of fungal infections (which can cause various root rots and Fire Blight) due to the simple fact that most phytophthora attacks will happen following periods of wet weather. This is definitely NOT what this plant experienced. This viburnum experienced drought, not drowning. Although the speed at which the plant died could represent a Fire Blight attack, the other symptoms just weren’t adding up.

I thought Botryosphaeria might be a possibility, due to the way the leaves died leathery and the fact it was showing evidence of vascular staining in the wood. Also, Botryosphaeria attacks can often happen following periods of drought stress on a plant. Hmmm. Ok. Makes sense. The one thing I was not seeing was any evidence of cankers on the branches, which is a big indicator of Botryosphaeria attack.

I started leaning towards Verticillium Wilt due to:
1. It is rampant in this area.
2. Viburnums are susceptible to Verticillium
3. Vascular staining
4. Leathery leaf death
5. No cankers
6. Fast death

However, I am not a disease specialist by any means. So, I ran it by my good friend Chris at the University of Wyoming. He seemed to agree that Verticillium was most likely the cause (Thanks Chris!!). He basically said that even though the plant had been well established, there may have been the perfect storm of disease presence, poor pruning, drought, and stress that it simply overwhelmed the plant and BOOM! Bye bye. Makes sense to me.

So that left me with the question of what to do. Obviously, the Viburnum is not going to make it. No amount of pruning is going to salvage this situation, so it needs to go. Replacing it, however, is not so straightforward. Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne fungal infection and can remain in the soil for years and there is no curative treatment. Planting a shrub that is susceptible to Verticillium will more than likely result in another dead plant in the not-to-distant-future. The replacement plant needs to be Verticillium resistant.

As this is getting to be a long post, I will continue the discussion tomorrow. I have a couple of good resource sites I will share with you in the next post, including a list of Verticillium susceptible and resistant trees and shrubs.

Cheers!

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Featured Plant - Devinely Blue Deodar Cedar

Need a small tree that won't outgrow that tight spot? There are quite a few of them out there, thanks to some cool nursery techniques, technology and uber-smart plant breeders.

When it comes to miniature, or dwarf, conifers, many of them have a difficult time holding a conical "tree" form, instead forming mounding or sprawling growth characteristics.

One tree, in particular that I have come to really enjoy is the Devinely Blue Deodar Cedar (Cedrus deodara "Devinely Blue"). With it's attractive blue-grey foliage and graceful, conical, yet compact tree form, this specimen is a nice addition in smaller landscape beds or larger planting boxes. It can provide nice contrast, or blend in with the surrounding vegetation just as easily.

I love this tree when paired with Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus "Nigrescens"), Golden Variegated Sweet Flag (Acorus gramineus 'Ogon'), Little Bunny Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Little Bunny'), Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi "Massachusetts"), and/or a nice light gray boulder or three.





Some of its characteristics:


  • Evergreen Conifer
  • Size: 6' tall by 3' wide (although I have seen a few pictures where they have gotten larger)
  • Growth Rate: 3-6" per year
  • Prefers full sun
  • USDA Zones 6-9
  • Prefers acidic soils
  • Tolerant of colder temperatures and snow loads

Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $100 for a 3-4 foot tree.

On a side note, this can be a confusing tree to research and locate. Some sites/nurseries have this listed as a mounding cultivar, while others have it as more upright. You will see heights ranging from 2 to 6 feet and widths of 3 to 6 feet. Be careful when selecting it and ask questions if it doesn't seem right. All the actual trees I have used and experienced have been upright and conical, with no prostrate characteristics.

Perhaps this is one of those plants that can be found in either form and I have only experienced the one. Bizon Nursery, here in the Willamette Valley has a nice selection of them and is a trustworthy and reputable grower of plants. They also have this tree as more upright.

http://www.bizonnursery.com/material.html?0=1315601&1=Cedrus+deodara+Devinely+Blue


Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Fall Bulbs

FALL is a great time to get Spring-flowering bulbs in the ground, and there is a really cool little contraption that can help you out with that. Called a "Dibber," they come in various sizes, but they all do the same thing: Punch a hole in the ground so you don't have to spend so much time digging.




Of course, this nifty little tool will only save you time if your soil is already fairly well worked, so don't expect it to perform miracles in your red clay!


Remember your bulb basics:


  • Work the soil 12-18 inches deep. Make sure there is plenty of organic material such as peat or compost. You want a nice moisture holding, but free-draining planting medium.
  • At the time of planting, mix in a small amount of slow-release, balanced fertilizer (10-10-10). Don't go too heavy on the phosphorous and potassium. Bone meal has historically been a good addition to the planting bed. Mix the fertilizer into the soil below the bulb.
  • Bulbs like a soil pH of 6-7. 
  • Plant at the proper depth! Planting depth is measured from the base of the bulb. If you do not have planting instructions for your specific bulbs, generally assume the depth should be 2-3 times the height of the bulb (a 2" tall bulb will be planted 4-6 inches deep).
  • Make sure you are orienting the bulbs correctly! Root plate down and growing tip up.
  • When done planting, water well and apply mulch.  

Garden Information



WELCOME TO WALAMT CONSULTING'S second blog! While the first spends some time covering landscape designers/architects and design theory topics, we figure people would probably appreciate getting some actual hands on knowledge and information. We will do our best to get a daily post up covering one topic or another relating to installing or maintaining your yard. whether it be disease diagnoses, guest articles, planting tips, or any of the myriad of garden issues one may come across.



AS ALWAYS, if you have a topic you would like to see covered, or have any other input, let us know!