Monday, December 14, 2015

The Landscape Professions



HELLO AGAIN! It's been a while, and I hope everyone's holiday season has been enjoyable so far.

I THOUGHT I would pick up where I left off with an article relating to the differences between landscape designers, landscape architects, nurseries and landscape contractors. It is my humble opinion that there are distinct differences between these professional fields and you should be aware of those differences when choosing a company to work with on your projects. In this day and age, more and more companies are starting to combine these fields under one roof in an effort to grab a larger share of the existing landscape-related market. From a business perspective, this is fair enough and makes complete sense. From a client perspective, this may also work out...but you need to be aware of what is going on. It is not always in your best interests to have your landscape designer be a landscape contractor, or your landscape contractor be a landscape designer. 

KEEP IN mind that I am a (former) landscape contractor, a landscape designer and I have an Master's degree in Landscape Architecture. I have worked in nurseries, owned a design-build company, I have worked for a design-build company, and have done a minor amount of design work on larger projects with a Landscape Architect. I am sure many people could pick apart my argument in favor of theirs, so again, this is my opinion. Take it for what it is worth. If it can help you decipher the process and the costs associated with your landscape installation project, but you disagree with my take on the process, well, I can live with that. 

LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS are going to be your highest level of education and experience, at the entry level. In order to become licensed, the general process involves, at a minimum, a four-year bachelor's degree or three year master's degree from an accredited institution, followed by at least two years of direct work experience under the direction of a licensed landscape architect. When that is complete, one can then qualify to sit for the Landscape Architects Registration Exam (L.A.R.E.). Whether the test is passed, or not, is an altogether different subject. I believe Utah is working on allowing students, straight out of college, to sit for the exam (which is absolutely ludicrous - have fun with that, Utes!). 

THE PURPOSE of being licensed as a landscape architect is to prove you are worthy of the more complicated aspects of landscape design, such as proper construction techniques of decks, retaining walls, piping systems, grading/drainage, etc... As such, landscape architects are the only ones allowed (when compared to designers, nurserymen, landscape contractors) to draw detailed construction-level documentation. See that stamp on your plans? Because of it, that deck joist design and point of connection is "guaranteed" to be appropriate and accurate and comes with all sorts of legal/financial ramifications if it isn't.

THE FINAL career fields of landscape architects rests anywhere from land use planning to landscape design. It is a diverse professional field, so don't think that because they are landscape architects, they only design back yards. Some do, many don't. Landscape architects are ideally suited for larger-scale projects, such as building complexes, university grounds improvements, municipal parks and greenways, environmental planning, and anywhere it will take a multiple-profession approach to completing the project (engineered roads, etc...). If you are looking to hire a licensed landscape architect to complete your project, expect to pay the highest rates. In general, it is common to see rates in the $100-$125 per hour range. Some less, some quite a bit more.

LANDSCAPE DESIGNERS are the next step down in terms of entry level education, experience, and licensure. There is no real requirement to become a landscape designer, but most will have a landscape architecture degree, a landscape design degree or certificate, or a horticulture degree. Many also have a fine arts background worked in there somewhere, BUT, this is not necessarily always the case. As such, this does not mean they are any less qualified than a landscape architect to design your project, and in many cases, they may be more qualified to do so. Depending on their background and what you are looking for, your landscape designer may be much more knowledgeable or skilled in horticulture specifics, plant layout/composition, color schemes, small-site projects or general artistic abilities. 

GENERALLY SPEAKING, landscape designers are going to be found practicing at the level of the residential homeowner. Plans will be less detailed, in regards to built elements, and you will need to rely on your contractor to ensure the proper and legal completion of the project. Price ranges for landscape designers vary, but it is not uncommon to see rates in the $70-$90 per hour range. 

NURSERIES, whether wholesale or retail, are going to be your horticultural experts, at least in the plants they either grow or sell. The educational background is almost completely based in the horticultural sciences. Often times, you will see nursery owners also provide landscape design services, and they can be quite competent at the task. They own nurseries because they love plants, planting layout, and planting design. They just went about the process from a different angle. 

A REQUIRED nurserymen's license is heavily weighted towards science-based knowledge and information. Since many nurseries do not design at all, their educational and legal requirements pertain to the healthy growth of plant materials and environmental impacts.

LANDSCAPE CONTRACTORS are required to be licensed, bonded and insured in their respective States. Licensure, in Oregon, requires a minimum of three years work experience before qualifying to take the Landscape Construction Professional's Exam (LCP). When I took this exam, it was a closed-book, 7 part, 750 question exam consisting of sections on Laws and Rules, Horticultural Knowledge, Grading and Drainage, General Construction, Irrigation, Backflow Prevention, and Low Voltage Electrical Systems. There are multiple levels of licensure, with the top tier being the All-Phase Landscape Construction Professional License. This certification allows for all aspects of landscape construction installation, including the completion of cross-connections (backflow prevention). High voltage electrical work is not allowed. 

LANDSCAPE CONTRACTING companies are required to have two licenses; the personal LCP and Landscape Contractor Business License. It is the business license under which the insurance and bonding requirements fall. In Oregon, I believe,  a landscape contracting company must also be a licensed in general contracting in order to sub-contract electricians, plumbers and other specialty trades. Other States will invariably have differing requirements. It is the contractor's responsibility to ensure the installation is completed appropriately and does not violate applicable codes.

 IT IS a common occurrence for the landscape contractor to also be the designer of their client's landscapes (hence the term "design-build"). The abilities of the contractor doing the design work is highly variable. Larger companies may have on staff a trained designer or possibly even a landscape architect. Smaller companies often rely on the talents of either the owner or perhaps an employee with a keen eye for design related issues. Plans can range from full-sized plan sets to small sketches to possibly no real "plan" at all.  

I AM a firm believer in the separation of the professions when it comes to completing landscape projects. Many will argue the efficiency gained of keeping multiple aspects of the project in-house will save the client time and money, and there are times this may be case. It also invariably leads to what I feel are design inadequacies related directly to these "efficiencies." Let's look at design-build contractors.

A DESIGN-BUILD contractor is in business to make money through the high-value installation process. A $4,000 design (or less) is used as an avenue to secure a $20, $30, $40,000 (or greater) installation contract. The cost of the design is minimal. Design becomes a vehicle for higher revenues, and is often dictated by the installation skills and capabilities of the contracting firm's employees. The process is often rushed, and less importance is placed on achieving a client-focused design solution due to the need to secure and schedule the installation. Often, the staff designer will have multiple designs in process at the same time, with a backlog of work waiting to be completed. 

AND, IF claimed by the contractor, don't be fooled into thinking your design is free. The designer is not working for free, so where is that money being made up? Lesser quality materials at the same charged rates as higher quality materials? Irrigation pipes not being placed as deep as they need be? Lesser skilled and lower wage employees? Hassles with warranty repairs? That money is being made up somewhere. If it is a small project, the design could possibly be completed with a quick sketch, and there really is no design (plan), so of course its "free." It is also laying the groundwork for lots of headaches in the installation process. 

BY UTILIZING a landscape designer (or landscape architect) before hiring a landscape contractor, you regain more control of the landscape installation process. The process becomes centered on the client and design solutions are based on the clients program, or demands. Do you want the materials for your patio to be determined, or influenced, based on the skill set of the contractor? Or would you rather have those materials and layout determined by the site and your preferences? The designer will make decisions based on you, for you. The contractor will try to influence you to achieve a solution that is more convenient for them. The greater their convenience, the higher their efficiency, the greater their profits. Maybe you will see some of those savings...maybe. Design companies focus their energies on design. Contracting companies focus their energies on building. Use each for their strengths, and you will automatically have created a system of checks and balances. The designer will make sure the contractor is installing the design properly and the contractor will keep the designer grounded in what can actually be built realistically and economically. 

YOU CAN find the same type of issues if you hire a nursery to complete your landscape design. While the nurseryman/designer is probably more than capable of designing your project, the primary focus of their business is the selling of plant material. What guaranty will you receive that your design is not being influenced, or rushed, due to the more pressing needs of the nursery? Will they be offering design solutions based on unliquidated stock? Will your design receive the full attention it deserves and needs? I have seen some absolutely horrible nursery stock get pawned off this way. Who will be ensuring your $150 (plus installation) tree isn't horribly root bound? It does happen. I have removed more than a few. And when it happens to you, it is more than likely your warranty period will have expired. 

WHILE WHAT I have discussed above is very general in nature, I hope it gives you a little more insight into what you are actually engaging in when start your project. Ultimately, landscapes are expensive. They are high labor, high material, high risk endeavors. Do it right. Would you build a house without a plan? Without an architect? Would you have your builder "sketch it out" to save a few bucks? Build a team of experts around you to ensure that every step of the process is completed appropriately and to the best of each team members skills. Designers/architects should be chosen based on their specialties and knowledge of your project type. Nurseries should be chosen based on proven history and reputation (your designer should be able to help you with this). Contractors need to be chosen for their abilities to complete your plan, not on whether their price was lowest. A properly planned and installed landscape can give you a lifetime of enjoyment and a healthy return on its investment. Give it the respect it deserves. 

Monday, November 2, 2015

The Dead David Viburnum Part II



THE LAST post discussed the possible cause of death of my poor David Viburnum. With a pretty clear diagnosis of Verticillium Wilt, it is time to figure out what to do next.

Verticillium, being a soil-borne fungus, is going to give this particular location fits for the foreseeable future so it is important to replace the shrub with something that is going to be resistant to its effects.

If you are facing the same problem, the following lists will give you some idea as what you will be able to plant.

Verticillium Wilt RESISTANT Plant Species:

Abies - Fir
Ageratum
Alcea - Hollyhock
Anemone
Aquilegia
Asimina - Pawpaw
Begonia - Begonia
Betula - Birch
Buxus - Boxwood
Calendula - Pot Marigold
Celtis - Hackberry
Cercidiphyllum - Katsuratree
Cornus florida
Crataegus - Hawthorn
Cunninghamia - China Fir
Dianthus
Fagus - Beech
Fern Species
Gleditsia - Honeylocust
Helleborus
Iberis
Ilex - Holly
Impatiens
Juglans - Walnut
Juniperus - Juniper
Larix - Larch
Liquidambar - Sweet Gum
Malus - Crabapple
Mimulus
Morus - Mulberry
Ostrya - Hophornbeam
Penstemon
Picea - Spruce
Pinus - Pine
Platanus - Planetree, Sycamore
Platycodon - Balloon Flower
Populus - Poplar
Portulaca
Primula - Primrose
Pseudotsuga - Douglas Fir
Pyracantha - Firethorn
Ranunculus
Quercus - Oak
Salix - Willow
Sorbus - Mountain Ash
Taxus - Yew
Thuja - Arborvitae
Verbena
Vinca
Viola
Zelkova
Zinnia


Verticillium Wilt SUSCEPTIBLE Plant Species:

Do not plant these in Verticillium infected areas!

Acer - Maple
Aesculus - Horsechestnut
Ailanthus - Tree of Heaven
Amelanchier - Serviceberry
Berberis - Barberry
Buxus - Boxwood
Catalpa
Cercis - Redbud
Chaenomeles - Quince
Cladrastis - Yellowwood
Cornus - Dogwood
Cotinus - Smoke Tree
Elaeagnus - Russian Olive
Fraxinus - Ash
Gymnocladus - Kentucky Coffee Tree
Hibiscus
Ligustrum - Privet
Maclura - Osage Orange
Magnolia
Nyssa - Sour Gum
Paeonia - Peony
Phellodendron - Amur Cork Tree
Populus - Poplar
Prunus - Cherry, Peach, Pear, Plum
Quercus - Oak
Rhododendron - Rhododendron or Azalea
Rhus - Sumac
Robinia - Black Locust
Rosa - Rose
Rubus - Bramble
Sassafras
Spiraea
Syringa - Lilac
Tilia - Linden
Ulmus - Elms
Viburnum
Vitis - Grape
Weigela


The previous lists were taken directly from: http://www.plantsgalore.com/care/disease/Diseases-verticillium-wilt.htm

Again, for a truly conclusive diagnosis, you should take the diseased plant, or a good portion of it, to your local extension office for testing. The Oregon State University Plant Clinic can help you in this testing. http://plant-clinic.bpp.oregonstate.edu/

For further information on Verticillium Wilt and management strategies, check out the following pages:

http://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/pathogen-articles/pathogens-common-many-plants/fungi/verticillium-wilt-pacific-northwest

http://www.ct.gov/caes/lib/caes/documents/publications/fact_sheets/plant_pathology_and_ecology/verticillium_wilt_of_trees_and_shrubs_05-08-08.pdf

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3053.html

Friday, October 30, 2015

The Dead David Viburnum Part I



DISEASE IDENTIFICATION in the garden is sometimes a difficult thing to accomplish correctly as there can be many overlapping and similar symptoms. However, determining what is plaguing your plants is an important task to accomplish, not only for hopefully saving your garden, but for determining what to replace it with if saving it is not an option.

The following rundown is on a David Viburnum (Viburnum davidii) that went from healthy to dead in a matter of just a few weeks. While I am pretty certain of its ultimate diagnosis, I will say that the only real way for me to be sure is to take a sample to my local extension office and have them test it. However, if I were to go test every plant I came across that was sick, I would be at the extension office quite a bit. Ain’t nobody got time for that. With a little sleuthing, you can figure out what is going on by yourself. If it ends up stumping you, then give the extension office a whirl.

Start by gathering all the relevant information. Growing conditions (soil, sun exposure, time of year, temperatures for the period prior to illness (could be months back – pay attention), mulch layer, etc.), broken branches, cankers (and locations), mold/mildew/fungus presence, leaf conditions (not all “spots” on a leaf are the same – fungus spots are different than bacterial spots), interior wood appearance (cut a branch to see), and plant history/age are all some of the things to take note of.

Once the basic information is down, it is time to start looking for what the cause could be. A good disease ID book or website with their identification rubrics can help to run through the symptoms. It doesn’t hurt to simply look through the web and familiarize yourself with the different possibilities before trying to figure out what went wrong with yours. Phytophthora? Botryosphaeria? Verticillium Wilt? Old Age? Mildew? Root Rots? There are so many different causal agents out there it will make your head spin – at first. But like everything, a little practice goes a long ways.

So, here is the poor little shrub. It started out this year in great shape, minus the poor pruning job someone had subjected it to the previous year. Its home is here in the Willamette Valley of Oregon.



As you can see, there is not a heck of a lot of green left (none, really). It went from bright green and healthy to this in a time span of about 2-3 weeks.

Here is what I observed:

  • Died in mid-September
  • Located on the NE side corner of the building between two houses
  • No digging or other landscape construction work recently
  • Hot summer sun in the early evening during the summer
  • This past summer was HOT and DRY. Very little supplemental watering/irrigation and rainfall had been non-existent since April
  • No mulch
  • Leaves turned brown and leathery with large, black splotchy areas, but no real “spots”
  • Previous poor pruning evidence, dead “stumps,” some broken (split) branches
  • No good canker evidence
  • No obvious fungal growths
  • Still firmly held into the ground
  • No obvious signs of insect infestation above or below ground
  • No real ability to determine age, but could possibly be 70 years old, part of the original house landscaping.
  • Dead tissue started with newly set berries, then one branch (which was pruned off) then the entire plant. From the branch pruning to whole plant death was in the neighborhood of 5-7 days. Whole process was 2-3 weeks.
  • Vascular staining in the interior wood starting at the outermost (cambium/cork cambium) layer and in towards the sapwood.


Brown, Leathery Leaves with Black Splotches

Vascular Staining (the dark stuff)


I ruled out the Phytopthora spp. of fungal infections (which can cause various root rots and Fire Blight) due to the simple fact that most phytophthora attacks will happen following periods of wet weather. This is definitely NOT what this plant experienced. This viburnum experienced drought, not drowning. Although the speed at which the plant died could represent a Fire Blight attack, the other symptoms just weren’t adding up.

I thought Botryosphaeria might be a possibility, due to the way the leaves died leathery and the fact it was showing evidence of vascular staining in the wood. Also, Botryosphaeria attacks can often happen following periods of drought stress on a plant. Hmmm. Ok. Makes sense. The one thing I was not seeing was any evidence of cankers on the branches, which is a big indicator of Botryosphaeria attack.

I started leaning towards Verticillium Wilt due to:
1. It is rampant in this area.
2. Viburnums are susceptible to Verticillium
3. Vascular staining
4. Leathery leaf death
5. No cankers
6. Fast death

However, I am not a disease specialist by any means. So, I ran it by my good friend Chris at the University of Wyoming. He seemed to agree that Verticillium was most likely the cause (Thanks Chris!!). He basically said that even though the plant had been well established, there may have been the perfect storm of disease presence, poor pruning, drought, and stress that it simply overwhelmed the plant and BOOM! Bye bye. Makes sense to me.

So that left me with the question of what to do. Obviously, the Viburnum is not going to make it. No amount of pruning is going to salvage this situation, so it needs to go. Replacing it, however, is not so straightforward. Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne fungal infection and can remain in the soil for years and there is no curative treatment. Planting a shrub that is susceptible to Verticillium will more than likely result in another dead plant in the not-to-distant-future. The replacement plant needs to be Verticillium resistant.

As this is getting to be a long post, I will continue the discussion tomorrow. I have a couple of good resource sites I will share with you in the next post, including a list of Verticillium susceptible and resistant trees and shrubs.

Cheers!

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Featured Plant - Devinely Blue Deodar Cedar

Need a small tree that won't outgrow that tight spot? There are quite a few of them out there, thanks to some cool nursery techniques, technology and uber-smart plant breeders.

When it comes to miniature, or dwarf, conifers, many of them have a difficult time holding a conical "tree" form, instead forming mounding or sprawling growth characteristics.

One tree, in particular that I have come to really enjoy is the Devinely Blue Deodar Cedar (Cedrus deodara "Devinely Blue"). With it's attractive blue-grey foliage and graceful, conical, yet compact tree form, this specimen is a nice addition in smaller landscape beds or larger planting boxes. It can provide nice contrast, or blend in with the surrounding vegetation just as easily.

I love this tree when paired with Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus "Nigrescens"), Golden Variegated Sweet Flag (Acorus gramineus 'Ogon'), Little Bunny Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Little Bunny'), Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi "Massachusetts"), and/or a nice light gray boulder or three.





Some of its characteristics:


  • Evergreen Conifer
  • Size: 6' tall by 3' wide (although I have seen a few pictures where they have gotten larger)
  • Growth Rate: 3-6" per year
  • Prefers full sun
  • USDA Zones 6-9
  • Prefers acidic soils
  • Tolerant of colder temperatures and snow loads

Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $100 for a 3-4 foot tree.

On a side note, this can be a confusing tree to research and locate. Some sites/nurseries have this listed as a mounding cultivar, while others have it as more upright. You will see heights ranging from 2 to 6 feet and widths of 3 to 6 feet. Be careful when selecting it and ask questions if it doesn't seem right. All the actual trees I have used and experienced have been upright and conical, with no prostrate characteristics.

Perhaps this is one of those plants that can be found in either form and I have only experienced the one. Bizon Nursery, here in the Willamette Valley has a nice selection of them and is a trustworthy and reputable grower of plants. They also have this tree as more upright.

http://www.bizonnursery.com/material.html?0=1315601&1=Cedrus+deodara+Devinely+Blue


Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Fall Bulbs

FALL is a great time to get Spring-flowering bulbs in the ground, and there is a really cool little contraption that can help you out with that. Called a "Dibber," they come in various sizes, but they all do the same thing: Punch a hole in the ground so you don't have to spend so much time digging.




Of course, this nifty little tool will only save you time if your soil is already fairly well worked, so don't expect it to perform miracles in your red clay!


Remember your bulb basics:


  • Work the soil 12-18 inches deep. Make sure there is plenty of organic material such as peat or compost. You want a nice moisture holding, but free-draining planting medium.
  • At the time of planting, mix in a small amount of slow-release, balanced fertilizer (10-10-10). Don't go too heavy on the phosphorous and potassium. Bone meal has historically been a good addition to the planting bed. Mix the fertilizer into the soil below the bulb.
  • Bulbs like a soil pH of 6-7. 
  • Plant at the proper depth! Planting depth is measured from the base of the bulb. If you do not have planting instructions for your specific bulbs, generally assume the depth should be 2-3 times the height of the bulb (a 2" tall bulb will be planted 4-6 inches deep).
  • Make sure you are orienting the bulbs correctly! Root plate down and growing tip up.
  • When done planting, water well and apply mulch.  

Garden Information



WELCOME TO WALAMT CONSULTING'S second blog! While the first spends some time covering landscape designers/architects and design theory topics, we figure people would probably appreciate getting some actual hands on knowledge and information. We will do our best to get a daily post up covering one topic or another relating to installing or maintaining your yard. whether it be disease diagnoses, guest articles, planting tips, or any of the myriad of garden issues one may come across.



AS ALWAYS, if you have a topic you would like to see covered, or have any other input, let us know!